Alberta in Autumn: 5-Day Canadian Rockies Road Trip
- natashazinkie
- Sep 15
- 7 min read
Fall in the Rockies? Say less
Perfection doesn't begin to cover it; golden trees, fewer crowds, cooler temperatures for hiking, snow kissed mountains (have I made my case yet?).
Back in October 2019, I had one mission: plan the ultimateĀ Canadian Rockies trip for a friendās very first visit. And let me tell you, it was a smashing success š. We checked off the iconic āmust-seesā, hunted down hidden gems, and soaked in every hour of daylight we could in this dreamy mountain haven.
Honestly, even if weād just sat in the car all week staring out the windows, my friend wouldāve been thrilled. But noā¦ I fine-tuned this itinerary from sunrise to sunset. And trust me, it paid off.
Day 1: Flying West & Chasing Mountains āļø
š Drive time: 2 hours and 30 minutes [ MapĀ for this leg ]
We kicked things off with a sunrise flight (6:25 am) Ottawa ā Calgary. We grabbed a car and hit the road (direction Banff). Two hours later, and we were surrounded by towering peaks. Not a bad start.
āļø First stop: Hiking Johnston Canyon and the Ink Pots.
A classic Banff outing, especially for a first time tourist. This stop features a boardwalk hugging turquoise streams through the canyon with waterfalls and that fresh pine trees all around.
The Lower FallsĀ are considered to be a family friendly walk (45 min round trip), while the Upper FallsĀ (2 hour round trip) begin to encroach on a gentle hike. We felt energized and excited to see more sweeping mountains views, so ultimately we opted to continue on beyondĀ the Upper Falls to the Ink PotsĀ (4 hours round trip).
š”ProĀ Tip:Ā Go early or late to avoid the bus tours crowding the Lower Falls. Crowds drop off dramatically beyond the Lower Falls.
Do not sleep on the Ink Pots. This lesser travelled trail is often overlooked but was worth the added time/elevation!
This trail brings you up beyond the canyon into the Meadows above surrounded by mountain peaks. The ink pots themselves are colourful bubbling shallow pools of water filled through an underground spring. This hike is very much still a beginner hike that was totally worth the extra distance and time.
āļø Second stop: Sweeping Views
After the hike, we treated headed back towards the Town of Banff to treat ourselves with a ride up the Banff GondolaĀ š . Yes, this one is veryĀ touristy. Yes, this one is expensive. But those 360Ā° views over Banff? Unreal. Sometimes the touristy things areĀ worth it, especially if you are seeking the Rockies for the first time.
š Refuel and Recharge
We walked around Downtown Banff and enjoyed some pizzas and pints at Bear Street TavernĀ before crashing at our hotel (Irwin's Mountain Inn). Not bad for day one.
Day 2: Lakes & Waterfalls š¦
š Drive time: 2 hours [ MapĀ for this leg ]
We woke up to crisp mountain air and headed to TouloulouāsĀ for pancakes bigger than our faces. Fuel = secured. There are better coffee shops and places to eat but we were craving a dinner style breakfast.
Looking for quality coffee? Got to Whitebark Cafe instead!
āļø First stop: Moraine Lake and Lake Louise. We arrived just as the mist was beginning to lift off the Peaks, and wow. That turquoise water reflecting snow-dusted mountains? Pure magic.
š”Pro Tip: Moraine Lake is shuttle accessĀ only - so buy tickets in advance (itās very easy and shuttles run frequently). Shuttles leave from Lake Louise ski resort which has ample parking for your personal vehicle. BeĀ warned it is only accessible June-Oct due to snow and avalanche conditions.
āļø Second stop: Takakkaw Falls
A quick detour across the Alberta/British Columbia border into Yoho National Park (35 minutes away) is worth it for this one! The name means āit is magnificentā in Cree, and it delivers.Ā Itās one of the tallest waterfalls in Canada, and the spray got us damp from way across the viewing area. Even in autumn with less water, it was dramatically tall and beautiful.
š Refuel and RechargeĀ
We wrapped up with a relaxed evening in Lake Louise, with a cozy dinner at LegendsĀ restaurant and a surprisingly nice stay at the HI Lake Louise Alpine Center Hostel.
Day 3: Mistaya Canyon, Parker Ridge & Glacier Highs āļø
š Drive time: 3 hours 15 minutes [ MapĀ for this leg ]
This was my favourite day hands-down. We grabbed some take out breakfast and hit the Icefields ParkwayĀ early given lots on the itinerary (arguably the most stunning drive in Canada).
āļø Peyto LakeĀ ā Shaped like a wolfās head, bright blue, framed by peaks. A quick but unforgettable stop. This is a park and walk type spot (a very short walk required along a paved path will take you a perfectly placed (and accessible) platform.
āļøMistaya CanyonĀ ā A true hidden gem that is a shockingly short walk just off the highway. It is either lesser known or often skipped, but wow. We just stood there, mesmerized.
āļøParker Ridge TrailĀ ā A fun climb, right off the highway. But the payoff? Endless views over the Saskatchewan Glacier sliding down the valley.
āļøAthabasca GlacierĀ ā A quintessential stop for a close up to one hell of a Glacier. Gotta admit that the crowds here subtract from the experience and there is a fairly long walk from the parking lots but this is the only place that allows you to get up close and personal with a Glacier without hiking to it.
āļøAthasbasca Falls ā an easy family friendly pit stop off the side of the road that gave me more wanderlust than I expected !
š” Pro Tip: Wear layers. It can be sunny and freezing at the same time, expect snow if you are visiting in October. Also, there is no cell phone serviceĀ along the Icefields Parkway, be sure to download your maps before you go!
šRefuel and Recharge
We ended the day at the final scenic stretch to Jasper as the sun dipped behind the peaks. We opted to stay at the Jasper Downtown Hostel, this one was not quite as nice as the one in Lake Louise but we were opting to be budget friendly and it was safe, clean and convenient.
Day 4: Jasper Magic & Gin Tasting šø
š Drive time: 5 hours and 25 minutes [ MapĀ for this leg ]
Jasper mornings hit different, we went for a walk around Jasper to enjoy the quiet, pink skies and crisp mountain air. With a coffee in hand we began exploring a bit of what Jasper has to offer nearby.
āļøMaligne Lake ā a quiet lake you can sit at or walk along, a perfect destination to enjoy for a morning coffee.
āļøMaligne Canyon's ā a super fun destination featuring numerous bridges and trails that criss-cross this 50m-deep gorge!
š”Ā Pro Tip:Ā Maligne Canyon is best in the morning before the crowds. In winter, it becomes an ice walk (bucket list!!)
āļøJasper SkyTram ā Another gondola with 360 views of the Rockies!
Hike to the very top Whistlers SummitĀ for the best panoramic views. Period.
Yes this one is also expensive and Yes we did do a similar thing in Banff but I stand by my arguments. The views are surreal and it is the perfect activity for a Rockies bucket list.
Then we began the journey back towards Canmore, this time stopping at some more of the smaller scenic stops along Highway 93.
āļøSunwapta Falls ā a quick pitstop with easily accessible horseshoe shaped falls.
āļøStop at Bow Lake ā a road side pull over along the scenic Icefields parkway drive; take in the view of the lake and enjoy the close proximity to the Rockies that this highway has to offer.
š” Pro Tip:Ā Once again there is no cell phone serviceĀ along the Icefields Parkway, be sure to download your maps before you go!
šRefuel and RechargeĀ
We hunkered down for the night in Canmore at the Rocky Mountain Ski Lodge, exhausted and ready to order Uber Eats. This hotel provided us with a perfect view framing the Three Sisters Peaks. We enjoyed one the most picturesque sunset I have ever seen from the room!
Day 5: Sunrise Hike & Gin Tastings šš»
šDrive time: 2 hours [ MapĀ for this leg ]
Waking up we originally planned to hike Ha LingĀ Peak (a 4.5 - 6 hour hike) but nature had other plans for us. The trail was closed due to recent cougar attacks. Just because we had to pivot doesnāt mean you have to! This hike is very straightforward, a bit grueling on the elevation gain but manageable on a dirt path, with switchbacks easing the burn. The summit gives the absolute best view over the town of Canmore.
Ā [Here is some proof from a previous time I did it in 2015]
Since we needed to pivot to:
āļøScenic driveĀ ā took a short drive along the road AB-742 (to sneak a glimpse at Ha Ling from a different vantage point)
āļøTrans Canada TrailĀ ā a walking path that follows the Bow River through Canmore.
āļøDowntown CanmoreĀ ā explored downtown and enjoyed lunch at a cozy cafe.
āļø Wildlife Distillery ā one of my favourite hidden gems of the trip.
šFinal Drive
We were well and truly running the clock too long we finally got back in the car to start the drive back to Calgary (1.5 hour) and journey back home to Ottawa.
Final Thoughts āØ
This trip had everything: glacier-fed lakes, hidden canyons, funky distilleries, sweeping mountain viewsā¦ you name it. October was the perfect time with fewer crowds, cooler weather, and just enough autumn colors to make every trail feel like magic.
If youāre dreaming of a Canadian Rockies trip, do it. And donāt skip the little gems between the big names: Mistaya Canyon, Parker Ridge, Maligne Canyon and Wildlife Distillery. Theyāre the stops that turned our trip from great to unforgettable.
All the best and Happy travels,
Roaming with Zinkie
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